Quiet Petals

Pressing, drying and keeping flowers, with tested notes on which colours last.

Collection
Notes on pressing and drying
Locality
blog.quietpetals.com
Pressed

Holding Colour

Keeping the blue: pressing larkspur, cornflower and lobelia without the fade

Blue is the colour pressing punishes most, and almost every faded sheet comes down to water left in the petal during the first two days. Here is the schedule we use to stop it.

Collected by
Hester Quayle
Pressed
Reading time
9 minutes

Every September someone sends us the same photograph: a sheet of larkspur that went into the press a clear violet-blue and came out the colour of weak tea. The flowers were picked at their best, laid out with care and weighted properly. What went wrong was almost always moisture, and almost always in the first forty-eight hours. Blue suffers more in the press than any other colour, but it also improves more than any other when you are disciplined about water.

The blues of larkspur (Consolida ajacis), cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) and trailing lobelia come from anthocyanins. Their colour depends on the acidity of the cell sap and on the pigment staying bound to metal ions and co-pigments inside the cell. When a petal dries slowly, the cell walls break down before the water has gone, the sap pools, and the pigment drifts towards mauve and then brown. When the water leaves quickly, the colour is fixed before it can drift. Every step below exists for speed.

Cut after the dew has burned off, around eleven in the morning on a dry day, and never within a day of rain. Choose florets that opened in the last day or two. On a larkspur spike, the lowest florets are usually already past it, even when they look fine. Strip the florets from the spike rather than pressing it whole: single florets dry in roughly a third of the time. With cornflowers, split each head in half with a scalpel straight down through the receptacle, so the thick base can’t hold water against the petals.

Build the stack from the bottom up: board, corrugated card with the flutes all running the same way so air can move through them, blotter, one sheet of 30 gsm acid-free tissue, the flowers, tissue, blotter, corrugated card, and repeat. Lay only one layer of flowers per blotter, with no florets touching. Apply about 15 kg of weight across an A4 area, or strap the press as tight as you can turn the bolts. Then put it somewhere warm with moving air: an airing cupboard at 28–30°C, or a shelf a metre in front of a running dehumidifier.

Change the blotters at twelve hours, twenty-four hours and forty-eight hours. The twelve-hour change is the one most people skip, and it does the most good. By the third change the old blotters should feel barely cool against the back of your hand. Dry the damp sheets on a rack and they can be reused for years. Lobelia is usually finished in four days, larkspur florets in six, and split cornflowers in eight to ten. To test, lift a floret by one edge. If it droops at all instead of lifting flat and stiff, it goes back in.

If you need certainty and can accept some brittleness, a microwave press holds blue more reliably than anything else. We use two unglazed terracotta tiles with felt and blotter between them, run in thirty-second bursts at 50 per cent power, opening the press to let the steam out after each burst. Lobelia needed three bursts in our tests and larkspur florets four. Anything with a thick centre, such as scabious or cosmos, scorches before it dries, so keep those for the ordinary press.

Once a flower is dry, light fades blue far faster than air does. Store finished sheets in archival folders in a closed drawer with a silica sachet, and keep the relative humidity under 50 per cent. Frame behind glazing sold as filtering 99 per cent of UV. The larkspur on our studio wall, pressed in July 2023 and glazed that way, is still unmistakably blue. Its twin, framed behind ordinary float glass on the same wall, had gone grey by the following spring.

Twelve weeks on a south-facing wall: pressed pansies under three glazings

Float glass, standard acrylic and UV-filtering acrylic, compared side by side with photographs taken at the same hour every Sunday.

By Priya Venkataraman, . 6 minutes to read.

The Press

A field press from two plywood offcuts and four M8 bolts

A press light enough to strap to a bike rack, built in an afternoon for under £15, and strong enough for thick stems.

By Adaeze Okonkwo, . 7 minutes to read.

Our field press uses two pieces of 6 mm birch plywood cut to 23 × 30 cm, which takes an A4 blotter with room to spare. Drill a 9 mm hole 2 cm in from each corner, with both boards clamped together so the holes line up. Push four 100 mm M8 carriage bolts up through the bottom board, then fit washers and wing nuts on top. The finished press weighs under 1.2 kg.

For the stack, cut corrugated card from shipping boxes to the board size, keeping all the flutes parallel to the long edge, and alternate card with blotter. Eight layers is the practical maximum before the bolts run short. Tighten the wing nuts a turn at a time on opposite corners, the way you would tighten a wheel, or the boards will rack and press one side harder than the other.

We seal the plywood with a single coat of hard wax oil, so a damp blotter can’t warp it. After two summers of use the boards are still flat, and the only part we have replaced is one wing nut, lost in a verge outside Ledbury.

Thin stems, fat centres: pressing cosmos and rudbeckia in two stages

Pressing the petals and the disc separately, then rejoining them on the mount, gives flat flowers with no bruised rim.

By Inês Marçal, . 5 minutes to read.

Hang-Drying

Leaving hydrangea heads on the shrub: when to cut for antique colour

Mophead hydrangeas dry best after they have half-dried in the garden, and the window for cutting is narrower than most people think.

By Tomasz Wierzbicki, . 6 minutes to read.

Mophead and lacecap hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) give their best dried colour when you leave them on the shrub well past their first flush. In late August and September the sepals thicken, lose their sheen and shift from summer pink or blue towards antique green, wine and slate. Cut too early, while the sepals are still soft and glossy, and the heads collapse within a day indoors no matter what you do.

The test we trust is touch. Rub a sepal between finger and thumb: if it feels papery and makes a faint squeak, the head is ready. Cut stems about 45 cm long, strip every leaf, and stand them in a jug with just 5 cm of water. Leave the water to evaporate without topping it up. The heads dry slowly in their own time over two to three weeks and keep their shape far better than hanging upside down would allow.

Varieties matter. ‘Annabelle’ (H. arborescens) dries to a clean parchment green if cut in early September. The old French ‘Ami Pasquier’ gives the deepest wine reds, but only from plants grown in neutral to alkaline soil. If your heads go brown rather than antique, they were usually cut a fortnight too soon, not too late.

Silica & Sand

Silica gel or fine sand for whole ranunculus

We dried twenty heads by each method and weighed them daily to see which kept the layered petals open without shattering.

By Mireille Fauchon, . 8 minutes to read.

Mounting & Tape

Japanese tissue hinges, and why we stopped using glue dots

Wheat-starch paste and kozo tissue let a pressed specimen be lifted off its mount decades later. Adhesive dots yellow within three years.

By Ruairí Doherty, . 5 minutes to read.

Growing for the Press

Sowing Ammobium alatum in July for a second flush of everlastings

Winged everlasting sown in midsummer flowers into October, just when the first sowing has gone woody.

By Jonah Ashdown, . 4 minutes to read.

About

Quiet Petals is written by people who press, dry and mount flowers at kitchen tables and in small cutting gardens. We test each method before writing it up, record what faded and what held, and say plainly when something didn’t work. Most of what we know came from ruined sheets.